Bleaching your hair after using permanent hair dye can be a tricky business. It’s not as simple as just slathering on some bleach and hoping for the best. Several factors come into play, and understanding the process is crucial to avoid damaging your hair and achieving the desired results. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know about bleaching permanent hair dye, from the science behind it to the potential consequences and how to minimize damage.
Understanding Permanent Hair Dye and Bleach
Before diving into the interaction between bleach and permanent hair dye, it’s important to understand how each works individually. Permanent hair dye, as the name suggests, is designed to permanently alter the color of your hair. Bleach, on the other hand, is a strong oxidizing agent used to lighten hair by breaking down the melanin pigments.
How Permanent Hair Dye Works
Permanent hair dyes work through a chemical process that involves two main components: ammonia and color pigments. The ammonia opens the hair cuticle, which is the outer protective layer of the hair shaft. This allows the color pigments, along with a developer (usually hydrogen peroxide), to penetrate the cortex, the inner layer of the hair. Once inside the cortex, the developer oxidizes the existing melanin, and the dye molecules react to create a new, permanent color. This process fundamentally changes the structure of your hair.
How Bleach Works
Bleach also works by opening the hair cuticle, similar to permanent hair dye. However, instead of depositing color, bleach uses a strong oxidizing agent to break down the melanin pigments that give your hair its natural color. The longer the bleach is left on the hair, and the higher the volume of the developer used, the more melanin is broken down, and the lighter the hair becomes. This process is highly damaging and can weaken the hair shaft if not done carefully.
The Chemical Reaction: Bleach Meets Permanent Dye
When you bleach hair that has already been dyed with permanent hair dye, you are essentially subjecting your hair to a double dose of chemical processing. The bleach attempts to remove both the artificial dye molecules and the natural melanin, leading to a complex and often unpredictable reaction.
The bleach can lift the artificial dye, but it doesn’t always do so evenly. Some dye molecules may be more resistant to the bleaching process than others, resulting in patchy or uneven lightening. Furthermore, the bleach can react with the underlying natural pigment, potentially creating unwanted tones like orange or yellow.
Potential Outcomes of Bleaching Dyed Hair
The outcome of bleaching previously dyed hair can vary greatly depending on several factors, including:
- The type and color of the original dye.
- The strength of the bleach used (developer volume).
- The porosity and condition of your hair.
- How long the dye has been in your hair.
- The natural base color of your hair.
Some potential outcomes include:
- Uneven lifting: Patches of different shades.
- Brassy tones: Orange, yellow, or red undertones.
- Damage and breakage: Weakened hair prone to snapping.
- Color banding: Visible lines where different colors meet.
- Successful lifting: Achieving a lighter, even base for a new color.
Factors Affecting the Bleaching Process
Several factors play a significant role in how your hair will react to bleach after being dyed. Being aware of these factors can help you manage your expectations and minimize potential damage.
The Type and Color of the Dye
Different dyes react differently to bleach. Darker dyes, such as black or dark brown, are notoriously difficult to remove and often require multiple bleaching sessions. Red dyes are also known for being stubborn and prone to leaving behind a reddish or orange tint. Lighter shades, such as blonde or light brown, may lift more easily but can still result in unevenness. Fashion colors (blues, greens, purples) are often unpredictable, some lifting easily and others staining the hair intensely.
The Strength of the Bleach (Developer Volume)
The strength of the bleach is determined by the volume of the developer used. Lower volumes (10 or 20) are less damaging and are suitable for lifting only a few levels or for toning. Higher volumes (30 or 40) provide more lift but are also more damaging to the hair. Using a higher volume developer than necessary can significantly increase the risk of damage and breakage.
The Porosity and Condition of Your Hair
Porosity refers to your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. High porosity hair has a more open cuticle, making it more prone to damage and faster absorption of chemicals. Low porosity hair has a tightly closed cuticle, making it more resistant to chemical processes but also slower to absorb them. Damaged hair is typically more porous and fragile, making it more susceptible to breakage when bleached.
How Long the Dye Has Been in Your Hair
Freshly dyed hair can be more difficult to bleach than hair that has had the dye for a longer period. This is because the dye molecules are still strongly bonded to the hair shaft. As the dye fades over time, it may become easier to lift with bleach. However, repeated dyeing can also lead to cumulative damage, which can make the hair more vulnerable to breakage.
The Natural Base Color of Your Hair
Your natural base color will influence the final result of the bleaching process. If you have naturally dark hair, you are more likely to experience brassiness (orange or yellow undertones) after bleaching. This is because bleach lifts through various underlying pigments before reaching a neutral blonde.
Minimizing Damage When Bleaching Dyed Hair
Bleaching already dyed hair is inherently damaging, but there are steps you can take to minimize the harm and improve the chances of a successful outcome.
Consult a Professional
The best way to minimize damage is to consult a professional hairstylist. A stylist can assess your hair’s condition, determine the best approach for lifting the color, and use professional-grade products and techniques to minimize damage. They also know how to handle color correction and can address any unexpected issues that may arise.
Strand Test
Before applying bleach to your entire head, perform a strand test. This involves applying the bleach mixture to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair to see how it reacts. This will allow you to assess the lifting power of the bleach, the resulting tone, and any potential damage before committing to the entire process.
Use a Low-Volume Developer
Opt for the lowest volume developer that will achieve the desired level of lift. A lower volume developer will process more slowly but will also be less damaging to your hair. You can always repeat the bleaching process with a low-volume developer if needed, rather than risking severe damage with a high-volume developer.
Use a Bond Builder
Bond builders, such as Olaplex or similar products, can help protect and repair the hair’s internal structure during the bleaching process. These products work by reconnecting broken disulfide bonds in the hair, which are essential for strength and elasticity. Adding a bond builder to your bleach mixture can significantly reduce damage and breakage.
Deep Condition Regularly
After bleaching your hair, it’s essential to replenish lost moisture and protein. Use deep conditioning treatments regularly to help restore the hair’s hydration, elasticity, and strength. Look for products containing ingredients like keratin, amino acids, and moisturizing oils.
Avoid Heat Styling
Heat styling can further damage already weakened hair. Minimize the use of heat tools like flat irons, curling irons, and blow dryers. If you must use heat, always apply a heat protectant spray to help shield your hair from damage.
Wait Between Sessions
If you need multiple bleaching sessions to achieve your desired color, wait at least several weeks between sessions to allow your hair to recover. During this time, focus on deep conditioning and repairing any damage.
Dealing with Unwanted Tones After Bleaching
Even with careful planning and execution, bleaching dyed hair can sometimes result in unwanted tones, such as brassiness. Fortunately, there are several ways to correct these tones and achieve a more desirable color.
Toning
Toning involves using a demi-permanent hair color to neutralize unwanted tones and create a more balanced color. Toners typically contain pigments that counteract specific colors, such as purple to neutralize yellow, blue to neutralize orange, and green to neutralize red.
Purple Shampoo
Purple shampoo is a toning shampoo that contains purple pigments to neutralize yellow tones in blonde hair. It can be used regularly to maintain a cool, bright blonde and prevent brassiness from returning.
Blue Shampoo
Blue shampoo works similarly to purple shampoo but is designed to neutralize orange tones in darker hair. It can be used to combat brassiness in brunettes or to maintain a cool, ashy tone.
Professional Color Correction
If you are struggling to correct unwanted tones on your own, it is best to seek professional help. A stylist can assess the color and condition of your hair and recommend the most appropriate color correction techniques to achieve your desired result.
Post-Bleach Hair Care
Bleached hair requires special care to maintain its health and appearance. Implementing a proper post-bleach hair care routine is crucial for preventing damage, promoting growth, and keeping your color vibrant.
Use Sulfate-Free Shampoo and Conditioner
Sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners are gentler on bleached hair than traditional products containing sulfates. Sulfates can strip the hair of its natural oils, leading to dryness and breakage.
Apply Leave-In Conditioner
Leave-in conditioner provides continuous hydration and protection throughout the day. It helps to detangle hair, reduce frizz, and add shine.
Use Hair Masks Regularly
Hair masks provide intensive treatment for damaged hair. Look for masks containing ingredients like keratin, proteins, and moisturizing oils.
Protect Hair from the Sun
Sun exposure can fade hair color and damage the hair shaft. Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection when spending time outdoors.
Trim Regularly
Regular trims help to remove split ends and prevent breakage from traveling up the hair shaft. Aim to trim your hair every 6-8 weeks to maintain its health and appearance.
Alternatives to Bleaching
If you are concerned about the potential damage from bleaching, there are alternative methods you can consider for lightening your hair.
Color Remover
Color removers are designed to remove artificial dye molecules from the hair without lightening the natural pigment. They are less damaging than bleach but may not be effective for removing very dark or heavily deposited dyes.
Highlighting
Highlighting involves lightening individual strands of hair rather than the entire head. This can be a less damaging option for adding brightness and dimension to your hair.
Lowlights
Lowlights are darker strands of hair that are added to create depth and contrast. They can be used to blend out harsh lines or to add dimension to a lighter hair color.
Gradual Lightening Products
There are products available that gradually lighten the hair over time. These products typically contain low levels of hydrogen peroxide or other lightening agents and are less damaging than traditional bleach.
Bleaching permanent hair dye is a complex process that can have varying results depending on the individual’s hair and the techniques used. Understanding the potential outcomes, minimizing damage, and implementing a proper post-bleach hair care routine are essential for achieving your desired color and maintaining healthy, beautiful hair. When in doubt, consulting a professional hairstylist is always the best option.
What actually happens to permanent hair dye when you bleach it?
Bleaching permanent hair dye breaks down the artificial color molecules deposited within the hair shaft. Permanent hair dye works by opening the hair cuticle and depositing color molecules that are too large to escape easily. Bleach, through a process of oxidation, lifts these molecules, lightening or removing them. This process is complex and the outcome is unpredictable, as the initial color, hair condition, and bleach strength all play a role.
The result of bleaching permanent hair dye is rarely a clean, blank canvas. More often, underlying pigments are revealed. This could include warm tones like red, orange, or yellow, depending on the darkness and undertones of the original dye. Because the bleaching process is uneven, it can also lead to patchy results if the dye wasn’t applied uniformly in the first place or if the hair is damaged in certain areas.
Will bleaching always remove all of the permanent hair dye?
No, bleaching doesn’t always completely remove all traces of permanent hair dye. While it’s the most effective way to lighten dyed hair, its success depends on several factors. The darkness and color of the original dye, the strength of the bleach, the length of time the bleach is left on, and the hair’s health all contribute to the final outcome. Darker and more vibrant colors, like reds or blues, can be particularly stubborn to remove.
Damaged hair may also hold onto dye molecules more stubbornly. Porous hair absorbs dye more readily, making it harder for bleach to lift the color completely. Additionally, repeated dyeing can cause color buildup, where layers of dye accumulate over time, making complete removal a significant challenge. Sometimes, multiple bleaching sessions or the use of color removers may be needed to achieve the desired level of lightness.
Is it safe to bleach my hair at home after using permanent dye?
Bleaching at home after using permanent dye can be risky, but it’s possible to do safely with careful planning and precautions. Start by assessing your hair’s condition. If your hair is already dry, brittle, or damaged, bleaching can further weaken it, leading to breakage or other issues. It’s best to postpone bleaching until your hair is in better condition, focusing on moisturizing and strengthening treatments in the meantime.
Thoroughly research the bleaching process and understand the potential risks. Use a low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume) to minimize damage, and always perform a strand test to check the results and assess how your hair reacts to the bleach. Closely monitor your hair during the bleaching process and rinse immediately if you notice any signs of damage, such as excessive heat or breakage. If you are unsure or uncomfortable with any part of the process, consulting a professional stylist is always the safest option.
What’s the best developer volume to use when bleaching permanent hair dye?
Choosing the right developer volume is crucial for achieving desired results while minimizing damage when bleaching permanent hair dye. A lower volume developer, such as 10 or 20 volume, is generally recommended for lifting color from already dyed hair. These lower volumes lift color more gently, reducing the risk of damage and breakage, especially for hair that has been previously processed.
Higher volume developers, like 30 or 40 volume, lift color more quickly and effectively, but they also pose a greater risk of damage. They should only be used on healthy, strong hair and by experienced individuals who understand the potential consequences. For most situations involving previously dyed hair, a lower volume developer used with patience and careful monitoring is the safer and more effective approach.
How long should I leave bleach on my hair when trying to remove permanent dye?
The amount of time to leave bleach on your hair when removing permanent dye depends on several factors and requires careful monitoring. Start by conducting a strand test to determine how your hair reacts to the bleach and to estimate the processing time needed. The strand test will give you a more precise indication of how long it will take to lift the color.
Generally, it is never recommended to leave bleach on for more than 50 minutes, regardless of the developer volume. Check the hair regularly during the bleaching process, typically every 5-10 minutes, to assess the color lift and monitor for any signs of damage. If the desired color lift is not achieved within the recommended time frame, it’s better to rinse the bleach, condition the hair, and repeat the process after a few weeks rather than risking excessive damage.
How can I repair my hair after bleaching permanent dye?
Repairing hair after bleaching permanent dye is essential to restore moisture, strength, and overall health. Bleaching can strip the hair of its natural oils and proteins, leaving it dry, brittle, and prone to breakage. Begin with deep conditioning treatments using products formulated for damaged or color-treated hair. These treatments help to replenish moisture and repair the hair shaft.
Incorporate protein treatments to help rebuild the hair’s structure and strengthen it against further damage. However, avoid excessive use of protein treatments, as they can sometimes lead to stiffness and breakage if overused. Regular trims are also important to remove split ends and prevent them from traveling up the hair shaft. Finally, protect your hair from heat styling and environmental damage by using heat protectant sprays and leave-in conditioners.
What are some alternative methods to bleaching for removing permanent hair dye?
While bleaching is the most effective method for lightening dyed hair, alternative methods exist that are gentler on the hair, albeit potentially less dramatic in their results. Color removers specifically formulated to remove artificial hair dye can be a good starting point. These products work by shrinking the dye molecules, allowing them to be washed out of the hair. They are often less damaging than bleach but may require multiple applications to achieve the desired result.
Another option is to use clarifying shampoos or dish soap to gradually fade the dye. These products can help to lift the dye molecules over time, but they can also be drying, so it’s important to follow up with a moisturizing conditioner. Finally, consider allowing the dye to fade naturally by avoiding heat styling, washing your hair less frequently, and protecting it from sun exposure. While this method takes the longest, it’s the least damaging option.