Hair coloring can be a complex process, filled with its own jargon and specialized products. Among the most commonly misunderstood terms are “hair toner” and “developer.” While both play crucial roles in achieving your desired hair color, they serve distinct purposes and possess different chemical compositions. Confusing the two can lead to unintended and often undesirable results. This article aims to clarify the differences between hair toner and developer, helping you navigate the world of hair coloring with confidence.
Understanding the Role of Developer
Developer, also known as peroxide, is a chemical agent that opens the hair cuticle, allowing color to penetrate. It activates the hair dye or lightener, initiating the oxidation process that permanently alters the hair’s pigment. The strength of the developer is measured in volume, typically ranging from 10 to 40.
How Developer Works
Developer works by releasing oxygen when mixed with hair dye or lightener. This oxygen reacts with the melanin in your hair, either lightening it or depositing the dye molecules. The volume of the developer determines the amount of oxygen released and, consequently, the degree of lift or color deposit achieved.
Different Developer Volumes and Their Uses
Choosing the correct developer volume is critical for achieving the desired results while minimizing damage. Each volume serves a specific purpose.
-
10 Volume: This is the gentlest developer, primarily used for depositing color, adding a gloss, or blending away a few grays. It provides minimal lift.
-
20 Volume: This is a versatile developer used for depositing color, covering gray hair, and achieving a slight lift (1-2 levels). It’s a popular choice for at-home coloring.
-
30 Volume: This developer provides moderate lift (2-3 levels) and is often used with permanent hair color to lighten and deposit color simultaneously. It requires more caution as it can cause more damage than lower volumes.
-
40 Volume: This is the strongest developer, offering significant lift (3-4 levels). It’s typically used with bleach for dramatic lightening or to lift stubborn color. It should only be used by experienced professionals due to the high risk of damage and uneven results.
Risks Associated with Developer
While essential for hair coloring, developer can also cause damage if used improperly. Overuse or using too high of a volume can lead to:
- Dryness and brittleness
- Breakage and split ends
- Scalp irritation and burns
- Uneven color results
Delving into the World of Hair Toner
Hair toner is a product used to neutralize unwanted undertones in the hair after it has been lightened, usually after bleaching. It doesn’t lift color; instead, it deposits pigment to correct unwanted hues, such as brassiness (yellow or orange tones). Toners come in various shades, including violet, blue, green, and silver, each designed to counteract specific undertones.
The Purpose of Toner
The primary purpose of toner is to refine the shade of bleached or pre-lightened hair. Bleach often exposes underlying warm tones, which can result in a brassy or yellow appearance. Toner corrects these tones, creating a more balanced and aesthetically pleasing color. It adds shine and dimension to the hair, enhancing the overall result of the lightening process.
How Toner Works
Toner works by depositing small amounts of pigment onto the hair shaft. These pigments neutralize the unwanted undertones, creating a more balanced and even color. For example, a violet toner is used to counteract yellow tones, while a blue toner is used to neutralize orange tones. The toner essentially cancels out the unwanted color by depositing its complementary color.
Types of Toners
Toners come in various forms, each with its own application method and longevity.
-
Demi-Permanent Toners: These toners contain a low volume of developer (usually 6-10 volume) and last for approximately 24-28 washes. They are a good option for subtle color correction and adding shine.
-
Semi-Permanent Toners: These toners do not contain developer and only deposit color. They last for a shorter period, typically 6-8 washes. They are ideal for refreshing color and adding a temporary tint.
-
Purple Shampoo and Conditioners: These products contain violet pigments that help to neutralize yellow tones. They are used as a maintenance tool to keep blonde hair looking bright and fresh.
When to Use Toner
Toner should be used after bleaching or highlighting the hair, when unwanted undertones are visible. It’s also used to refresh color, add shine, or correct minor color imperfections. Using toner on unbleached hair will likely have little to no effect, as toner doesn’t lift the hair’s natural pigment.
Key Differences Between Toner and Developer
While both toner and developer are used in hair coloring, their functions and chemical compositions are vastly different. Understanding these differences is critical for achieving the desired results and preventing damage.
-
Function: Developer lifts color or deposits color when mixed with dye. Toner neutralizes unwanted undertones and adds shine.
-
Composition: Developer is primarily hydrogen peroxide. Toner contains pigments to counteract unwanted tones.
-
Use: Developer is used with hair dye or lightener to alter the hair’s base color. Toner is used after lightening to refine the shade.
-
Effect on Unprocessed Hair: Developer can lift color on unprocessed hair. Toner has little to no effect on unprocessed hair.
-
Volume: Developer has varying volumes (10-40). Toner typically uses low volume developer (6-10) or no developer.
Can Toner Be Used Without Developer?
Yes, some types of toners can be used without developer. These are typically semi-permanent toners, which deposit color but do not lift the hair’s natural pigment. These toners are ideal for refreshing color or adding a subtle tint. However, demi-permanent toners, which are more common, require a low-volume developer to activate the pigment and deposit color effectively.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Several common mistakes can occur when using toner and developer, leading to unwanted results or damage.
-
Using Toner on Unbleached Hair: Toner will have little to no effect on unbleached hair, as it cannot lift the hair’s natural pigment.
-
Using Too Strong of a Developer with Toner: Toner typically requires a low-volume developer (6-10) or no developer. Using a higher volume can damage the hair and result in uneven color.
-
Leaving Toner on for Too Long: Over-processing toner can result in unwanted color changes, such as overly ashy or muddy tones.
-
Skipping a Strand Test: Always perform a strand test before applying toner or developer to your entire head to ensure you achieve the desired result.
-
Not Considering Hair Porosity: Porosity affects how quickly hair absorbs product. Highly porous hair might grab toner quickly, needing less processing time.
Choosing the Right Products for Your Hair
Selecting the right toner and developer depends on your hair type, desired color, and the level of lightening you have achieved.
-
Consider Your Hair Type: Fine, damaged hair requires a lower volume developer and a gentler toner. Coarse, healthy hair can tolerate slightly higher volumes.
-
Assess Your Hair Color: Determine the underlying tones you need to neutralize. Yellow tones require violet toner, while orange tones require blue toner.
-
Read Reviews and Consult Professionals: Research different products and read reviews from other users. If you’re unsure, consult a professional hairstylist for personalized advice.
-
Consider Ammonia Content: Toners and developers are available with and without ammonia. Ammonia-free options are generally gentler.
Maintenance and Aftercare
Proper maintenance and aftercare are essential for preserving your hair color and preventing damage after using toner and developer.
-
Use Color-Safe Shampoo and Conditioner: These products are formulated to protect your hair color and prevent fading.
-
Avoid Excessive Heat Styling: Heat can damage the hair and cause color to fade. Use heat protectant products when styling.
-
Deep Condition Regularly: Deep conditioning treatments help to replenish moisture and repair damage.
-
Use Purple Shampoo/Conditioner: Use purple shampoo or conditioner once or twice a week to maintain blonde shades and prevent brassiness.
-
Protect Hair from Sun: Sun exposure can fade hair color. Wear a hat or use UV protectant products when spending time outdoors.
In Conclusion
Hair toner and developer are distinct products with different functions in the hair coloring process. Developer opens the hair cuticle and initiates the lightening or coloring process, while toner neutralizes unwanted undertones and adds shine. Understanding the differences between these two products is crucial for achieving your desired hair color and preventing damage. By carefully selecting the right products and following proper application techniques, you can achieve salon-worthy results at home. Remember, when in doubt, consult a professional hairstylist for personalized advice and guidance.
FAQ 1: What is the main purpose of hair toner, and how does it differ from developer?
Hair toner’s primary function is to neutralize unwanted undertones in hair after bleaching or lightening. Think of it as a color corrector that deposits pigment to counteract brassiness, yellow, orange, or red hues, resulting in a more balanced and desired hair color. Toners refine the shade, add shine, and help achieve a specific color goal, such as icy blonde or ash brown.
Developer, on the other hand, is an oxidizing agent that activates hair dye or bleach. It opens the hair cuticle, allowing the color or lightener to penetrate and alter the hair’s natural pigment. Developer doesn’t add color itself; it facilitates the color change process initiated by the dye or bleach, and is essential for lifting the hair’s existing color.
FAQ 2: Can I use hair toner without developer?
Typically, no. Most hair toners require a low-volume developer (usually 10 or 20 volume) to activate the color and allow it to deposit into the hair shaft. The developer opens the hair cuticle just enough for the toner to penetrate and neutralize the unwanted undertones effectively. Without developer, the toner pigment will likely not adhere to the hair properly and the desired color correction won’t be achieved.
However, there are some deposit-only toners, like color-depositing conditioners, that don’t require a developer. These products are designed to temporarily tint the hair and can be used directly. It’s crucial to check the instructions on your specific toner product to determine if a developer is needed, as application methods vary.
FAQ 3: What volume of developer should I use with hair toner?
The recommended developer volume for toner usually falls between 10 and 20 volume. A 10 volume developer provides a gentle lift and is ideal for subtle color adjustments or when minimal lifting is needed. It’s a safer choice for already lightened or damaged hair.
A 20 volume developer offers slightly more lifting power and is suitable for toning darker blonde shades or when aiming for a more noticeable color change. Always follow the specific instructions provided with your toner, as using a higher volume developer than recommended can lead to unwanted lightening or damage to the hair.
FAQ 4: Can developer be used on its own to lighten hair without bleach or dye?
While developer does have some lifting power on its own, it’s generally not effective for significant lightening without being mixed with bleach or hair dye. Developer opens the hair cuticle, but it needs the lightening agents in bleach or the pigments in dye to create a substantial color change. Using developer alone might result in a very subtle lift, particularly on virgin hair.
Attempting to lighten hair significantly with only developer can be damaging and unpredictable. The hair might become dry, brittle, and unevenly lightened. For noticeable lightening, it’s best to use developer in conjunction with a professional-grade bleach or high-lift color, following the manufacturer’s guidelines.
FAQ 5: How do I choose the right toner for my hair?
Selecting the appropriate toner depends on the unwanted undertones you’re trying to neutralize and the desired final hair color. If your hair has yellow undertones, a purple or violet-based toner will help to achieve a cooler, ashier blonde. For orange undertones, a blue-based toner is more effective in creating a neutral or cooler shade.
Consider your hair’s level (how light or dark it is) when choosing a toner. Lighter shades typically require less intense toners, while darker shades might need a stronger formula or multiple applications. Consult a color chart or stylist to determine the best toner shade for your specific hair color and desired results.
FAQ 6: What are the risks of using the wrong toner or developer?
Using the wrong toner can result in unwanted color results, such as green or muddy tones. If you choose a toner that doesn’t effectively neutralize the undertones in your hair, you might end up with a shade that’s brassier or duller than intended. Incorrect toner selection can lead to disappointment and require further color correction.
Using the wrong developer volume can also be detrimental. A developer that’s too strong can cause excessive lightening, damage, and breakage, while a developer that’s too weak might not activate the toner properly, leading to ineffective color correction. Always carefully read and follow the instructions on both the toner and developer products.
FAQ 7: How long should I leave toner on my hair?
The processing time for toner varies depending on the brand, formula, and desired intensity of color. Generally, most toners are left on for 10-30 minutes. It’s crucial to follow the specific instructions provided on your toner product to avoid over-processing or under-processing.
Keep a close eye on your hair while the toner is processing. Regularly check the color development and rinse the toner out as soon as you achieve the desired shade. Over-processing can lead to unwanted color changes or even damage, while under-processing may not effectively neutralize the undertones.