Bleaching your roots is a common practice for maintaining a consistent hair color, especially if you’re rocking a lighter shade. However, it’s a process that comes with risks, and doing it incorrectly can lead to damage, breakage, and even chemical burns. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the safest and most effective methods for bleaching your roots at home, minimizing damage and maximizing results.
Understanding the Science of Bleaching
Before diving into the how-to, it’s crucial to understand what bleach actually does to your hair. Bleach, typically a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and an alkaline agent like ammonia, works by oxidizing the melanin in your hair shaft. Melanin is the pigment that gives your hair its natural color. The oxidation process breaks down these melanin molecules, effectively lightening the hair.
The strength of the bleach is determined by the volume of hydrogen peroxide used. Higher volumes (e.g., 30 or 40 volume) lift color faster but also cause more damage. Lower volumes (e.g., 10 or 20 volume) are gentler but may require multiple applications to achieve the desired lightness.
Different hair types react differently to bleach. Fine hair is more susceptible to damage than thick hair, and dark hair typically requires more processing to reach a light blonde. Previously colored or chemically treated hair is also more vulnerable and needs extra care.
Preparing for the Bleaching Process
Proper preparation is key to a successful and safe root bleaching experience. This includes gathering the right supplies, protecting your skin and clothing, and strand testing.
Gathering Your Supplies
You’ll need the following:
- Bleach powder or cream: Choose a high-quality bleach specifically designed for hair.
- Developer (hydrogen peroxide): Select the appropriate volume based on your hair type and desired lift (10, 20, 30, or 40 volume). A lower volume is generally safer for beginners.
- Mixing bowl: Non-metallic (plastic or glass).
- Applicator brush: For precise application.
- Gloves: To protect your hands.
- Hair clips: To section your hair.
- Old towel: To protect your clothing.
- Petroleum jelly or barrier cream: To protect your hairline and ears.
- Timer: To monitor processing time.
- Shampoo and conditioner: Preferably a color-safe and moisturizing formula.
- Toner (optional): To neutralize unwanted tones (e.g., yellow or orange).
- Purple shampoo (optional): For maintaining blonde tones.
Protecting Your Skin and Clothing
Bleach can irritate or burn your skin, so take precautions. Apply a generous layer of petroleum jelly or barrier cream along your hairline, around your ears, and on the back of your neck. Wear an old towel that you don’t mind staining or an old t-shirt. Always wear gloves to protect your hands from the chemicals.
The Importance of Strand Testing
A strand test is absolutely essential before bleaching your entire head, especially if you’re bleaching at home for the first time. This allows you to see how your hair reacts to the bleach, determine the appropriate processing time, and assess the final color result.
To perform a strand test, mix a small amount of bleach and developer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Apply the mixture to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair (e.g., underneath a layer of hair near the nape of your neck). Check the strand every few minutes to monitor the color change and the condition of your hair. Once the desired level of lift is achieved (or if you notice any signs of damage), rinse the strand thoroughly and observe the results. Use this information to adjust the bleach strength or processing time for your full application.
The Bleaching Process: Step-by-Step
Now that you’re prepared, let’s move on to the actual bleaching process.
Mixing the Bleach
Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing the bleach and developer. The typical ratio is 1 part bleach powder to 2 parts developer, but this can vary depending on the brand and product. Use a non-metallic bowl and applicator brush to mix the ingredients thoroughly until you achieve a smooth, creamy consistency. Avoid inhaling the fumes.
Sectioning Your Hair
Divide your hair into four sections: two in the front and two in the back. Use hair clips to keep each section separate and organized. This will ensure even application and prevent you from missing any spots.
Applying the Bleach
Start by applying the bleach to the roots only, about ΒΌ inch away from the scalp. The heat from your scalp will accelerate the bleaching process, so leaving a small gap will prevent hot roots (roots that lift faster and become lighter than the rest of your hair). Use the applicator brush to apply the bleach evenly to each section of roots, working quickly and efficiently.
Once you’ve covered all the roots, carefully check for any missed spots and apply more bleach as needed. Avoid overlapping the bleach onto previously lightened hair, as this can cause breakage and damage.
Processing Time
The processing time will depend on the volume of developer you’re using, the darkness of your hair, and the desired level of lift. Generally, 10 volume developer can process for up to 50 minutes, 20 volume for up to 45 minutes, 30 volume for up to 30 minutes, and 40 volume for up to 20 minutes.
Never leave the bleach on for longer than the recommended time. Check your hair every 5-10 minutes to monitor the color change and the condition of your hair. If you notice any signs of damage (e.g., breakage, elasticity loss, burning sensation), rinse the bleach immediately.
Rinsing and Shampooing
Once the desired level of lift is achieved, rinse the bleach thoroughly with cool water. Make sure to remove all traces of the bleach from your hair. Follow with a color-safe shampoo to gently cleanse your hair and scalp.
Toning (Optional)
Bleaching can often leave unwanted tones in your hair, such as yellow or orange. A toner can help neutralize these tones and create a more balanced and natural-looking blonde. Choose a toner that is specifically designed for your hair color and desired result. Apply the toner according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Post-Bleach Care and Maintenance
Bleaching can strip your hair of its natural moisture, so it’s essential to replenish it with proper care and maintenance.
Deep Conditioning Treatments
Use a deep conditioning treatment once or twice a week to restore moisture and strengthen your hair. Look for products that contain ingredients like keratin, argan oil, or coconut oil.
Color-Safe Products
Use color-safe shampoos and conditioners to prevent your color from fading and to protect your hair from damage. Avoid products that contain sulfates, as these can strip your hair of its natural oils.
Heat Protection
Minimize the use of heat styling tools, such as blow dryers, curling irons, and straighteners. When you do use heat, always apply a heat protectant spray to shield your hair from damage.
Regular Trims
Get regular trims (every 6-8 weeks) to remove split ends and prevent breakage. This will keep your hair looking healthy and strong.
Purple Shampoo
Use purple shampoo once or twice a week to maintain your blonde tones and prevent them from turning brassy. Purple shampoo contains violet pigments that neutralize yellow tones.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Bleaching can be tricky, and it’s easy to make mistakes that can damage your hair. Here are some common pitfalls to avoid:
- Using too high of a developer volume: This can cause excessive damage and breakage. Start with a lower volume and work your way up if needed.
- Leaving the bleach on for too long: This can also lead to damage and breakage. Monitor your hair closely and rinse the bleach as soon as the desired level of lift is achieved.
- Overlapping the bleach onto previously lightened hair: This can create banding and breakage. Apply the bleach only to the roots.
- Not doing a strand test: This is a crucial step that allows you to assess how your hair reacts to the bleach and adjust the processing time accordingly.
- Bleaching damaged hair: If your hair is already damaged, bleaching it can make it even worse. Focus on repairing your hair before attempting to bleach it.
- Skipping post-bleach care: Bleaching can strip your hair of its natural moisture, so it’s essential to replenish it with deep conditioning treatments and color-safe products.
When to Seek Professional Help
While it’s possible to bleach your roots safely at home, there are times when it’s best to seek professional help.
- If you have very dark hair: Achieving a light blonde on very dark hair can be challenging and requires multiple bleaching sessions. A professional colorist can help you achieve the desired result without damaging your hair.
- If you have previously colored or chemically treated hair: Previously colored or chemically treated hair is more vulnerable to damage, and bleaching it can be risky. A professional colorist can assess the condition of your hair and determine the best course of action.
- If you’re not comfortable bleaching your hair yourself: If you’re nervous or unsure about the process, it’s best to leave it to the professionals. A professional colorist has the experience and expertise to bleach your roots safely and effectively.
- If you experience any adverse reactions: If you experience any burning, itching, or other adverse reactions during the bleaching process, rinse the bleach immediately and seek medical attention.
Maintaining Healthy Bleached Hair
Maintaining healthy bleached hair requires commitment and consistent care. Consider these tips:
- Invest in quality products: Don’t skimp on shampoo, conditioner, and treatments. High-quality products formulated for bleached hair make a significant difference.
- Limit washing: Over-washing can strip your hair of its natural oils. Try to wash your hair only 2-3 times per week.
- Air dry whenever possible: Avoid using a blow dryer as much as possible. Air drying is much gentler on your hair.
- Use a silk or satin pillowcase: These materials are gentler on your hair than cotton, which can cause friction and breakage.
- Be patient: Achieving and maintaining healthy bleached hair takes time and effort. Don’t expect overnight results.
By following these tips, you can bleach your roots safely at home and maintain healthy, beautiful blonde hair. Remember to prioritize the health of your hair and seek professional help when needed.
What are the key steps to prepare my hair for bleaching roots?
Before bleaching your roots, it’s crucial to ensure your hair is in the best possible condition. Start by avoiding washing your hair for at least 24-48 hours before bleaching. This allows natural oils to build up on your scalp, acting as a barrier against the harsh chemicals in the bleach. Deep conditioning treatments in the week leading up to the bleaching process can also help strengthen your hair and minimize damage.
Additionally, perform a strand test before applying bleach to your entire head. This allows you to assess how your hair reacts to the bleach and determine the appropriate developer volume and processing time. This step is vital in preventing unexpected and potentially damaging results. If you’ve recently used heat styling tools or other chemical treatments, give your hair a break for a few weeks before attempting to bleach your roots.
How do I choose the right developer volume for bleaching my roots?
Choosing the correct developer volume is essential for achieving the desired level of lift while minimizing damage. Lower volumes, such as 10 or 20 volume, are generally recommended for those with fine or damaged hair, or for subtle lightening. These volumes lift slower and are gentler on the hair, reducing the risk of breakage and over-processing.
Higher volumes, such as 30 or 40 volume, are typically used for darker hair colors or when a significant level of lightening is needed. However, these volumes are more potent and can cause significant damage if not used carefully. It’s generally best to avoid 40 volume developer for at-home root bleaching, especially if you’re not experienced. Start with a lower volume and reassess the results before applying a stronger developer.
How do I apply bleach to my roots correctly and evenly?
Begin by dividing your hair into small, manageable sections. This ensures thorough and even application of the bleach mixture. Using a tint brush, apply the bleach only to the new growth at your roots, avoiding overlap with previously bleached hair, which can lead to breakage.
Work quickly but carefully, ensuring all root areas are covered with the bleach mixture. Avoid applying bleach directly to the scalp, as this can cause irritation or burns. Once the roots are completely covered, gently massage the bleach into the roots to ensure even distribution. Set a timer and carefully monitor the processing time, checking regularly to assess the level of lift.
How long should I leave bleach on my roots?
The processing time for bleaching your roots depends on several factors, including your natural hair color, the developer volume used, and the desired level of lightness. Always refer to the bleach manufacturer’s instructions for specific guidelines. Start checking the hair every 5-10 minutes after the initial application.
The maximum recommended processing time for bleach is typically around 45-50 minutes. However, it’s crucial to prioritize the health of your hair and stop processing as soon as the desired level of lift is achieved, even if it’s before the maximum time. Over-processing can lead to severe damage, breakage, and even hair loss.
What should I do after bleaching my roots to maintain hair health?
After bleaching your roots, thoroughly rinse your hair with cool water until all traces of bleach are removed. Cool water helps to close the hair cuticle, reducing further damage. Follow up with a color-safe shampoo specifically designed for bleached or color-treated hair.
Immediately after shampooing, apply a deep conditioning treatment or hair mask to replenish moisture and repair any damage caused by the bleaching process. Leave the conditioner on for the recommended time, or even longer, for maximum benefit. Regular deep conditioning treatments are essential for maintaining the health and integrity of bleached hair.
How can I tone my roots after bleaching to achieve my desired hair color?
Toning is a crucial step after bleaching to neutralize any unwanted brassy or yellow tones and achieve your desired hair color. Choose a toner that complements your desired shade and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Apply the toner evenly to your roots, ensuring complete coverage.
Monitor the toner’s processing time closely to prevent over-toning, which can result in the opposite effect and leave your hair looking dull or muddy. After rinsing out the toner, follow up with another deep conditioning treatment to further nourish and protect your hair. Using purple shampoo and conditioner regularly can also help maintain your desired tone and prevent brassiness in between toning sessions.
What are the signs of over-processed or damaged hair after bleaching roots?
Over-processed or damaged hair after bleaching can manifest in several ways. Common signs include hair that feels dry, brittle, and straw-like. You might also notice increased breakage, split ends, and a loss of elasticity, meaning the hair doesn’t bounce back when stretched.
Other signs of damage include a gummy or mushy texture when wet, difficulty styling, and a significant change in hair porosity. If you experience any of these symptoms, it’s crucial to immediately stop any further chemical treatments and focus on restoring moisture and protein to your hair. Consult with a professional hairstylist for personalized advice on how to repair and strengthen damaged hair.