The burning question for anyone who’s ever regretted a hair dye decision: Can you actually lighten hair that has already been dyed? The answer, as with most things in the beauty world, is a nuanced one. It’s not a simple yes or no, but rather a “it depends.” This article dives deep into the complexities of lightening previously dyed hair, exploring the challenges, the techniques, the potential risks, and the best approaches to achieve your desired lighter shade.
Understanding the Challenges of Lightening Dyed Hair
Before we delve into the methods, it’s crucial to understand why lightening dyed hair is more complicated than lightening virgin hair. Virgin hair, hair that hasn’t been chemically treated, provides a clean slate. When you lighten virgin hair, the lifting agents, usually hydrogen peroxide or bleach, can directly target the natural melanin pigments.
Dyed hair, however, presents a different scenario. The hair shaft is already filled with artificial pigments. These pigments can react unpredictably to lightening agents. The biggest challenge is removing the artificial color molecules without causing excessive damage to the hair.
The Layering Effect and Color Build-Up
Each time you dye your hair, you’re essentially layering color on top of existing color. This can lead to a buildup of pigment, making it harder to lift the color evenly. The further away your desired shade is from your current shade, the more difficult the process will become. Darker dyes are particularly challenging to remove.
Porous Hair and Uneven Lifting
Dyed hair is often more porous than virgin hair. The dyeing process can alter the hair’s structure, creating microscopic gaps and fissures. This increased porosity means that the hair absorbs color unevenly and may also lift unevenly during lightening. This can result in a patchy or blotchy appearance.
Methods for Lightening Dyed Hair
Several methods can be used to lighten dyed hair, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. The best method for you will depend on your hair’s condition, the type of dye used previously, your desired level of lightness, and your comfort level with chemical processes.
Bleach: The Most Powerful Option
Bleach, also known as hair lightener, is the most potent method for lightening dyed hair. It works by oxidizing the color molecules, effectively breaking them down and removing them from the hair shaft. However, bleach is also the most damaging option.
Bleach should only be used by experienced professionals. Incorrect application can lead to severe damage, breakage, and even hair loss. If you’re considering bleach, it’s crucial to find a skilled stylist who understands color correction and can assess your hair’s health before proceeding.
Strand Tests Are Essential
Before applying bleach to your entire head, a strand test is absolutely essential. This involves applying bleach to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair to assess how it reacts. The strand test will reveal how much lift you can achieve, how quickly the bleach processes, and whether your hair can tolerate the treatment.
The Importance of Proper Application and Timing
The application of bleach needs to be precise and even to avoid banding or hot roots (where the roots lift much faster than the rest of the hair). The timing is also crucial. Over-processing can lead to significant damage, while under-processing may not achieve the desired level of lightness.
Color Removers: A Gentler Alternative
Color removers are designed to remove artificial dye molecules from the hair without lightening the natural pigment. They work by shrinking the dye molecules, allowing them to be washed out of the hair.
Color removers are generally less damaging than bleach, but they are not always effective, especially on darker dyes or dyes that have been layered multiple times. They are best suited for removing semi-permanent or demi-permanent dyes, or for lifting a shade or two of permanent dye.
How Color Removers Work
Color removers typically contain a reducing agent that breaks down the bonds holding the dye molecules together. The loosened dye molecules are then rinsed away with water and shampoo. It’s important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and to use a clarifying shampoo to ensure that all the dye is removed.
Potential Side Effects
While color removers are gentler than bleach, they can still dry out the hair. It’s important to deep condition your hair after using a color remover to restore moisture. Some color removers can also have a slightly unpleasant odor.
High-Lift Dyes: For Subtle Lightening
High-lift dyes are designed to lighten and deposit color in a single step. They contain a higher concentration of ammonia and peroxide than regular dyes, allowing them to lift the hair’s natural pigment while simultaneously depositing the desired color.
High-lift dyes are best suited for lightening dyed hair by one or two shades. They are not effective for making drastic changes, such as going from dark brown to blonde. They can also be less predictable on previously dyed hair, as the underlying pigment can influence the final result.
When to Use High-Lift Dyes
High-lift dyes are a good option for those who want to gradually lighten their hair over time, or for those who are looking to refresh their color and add a bit of brightness. They are also a good choice for covering gray hair while simultaneously lightening the overall shade.
Natural Remedies: Gentle but Slow
Several natural remedies are often touted as being able to lighten hair. These remedies, such as lemon juice, honey, and chamomile tea, work by gently oxidizing the hair’s pigment.
Natural remedies are the least damaging option, but they are also the least effective. They may provide a subtle lightening effect over time, but they are unlikely to make a significant difference, especially on heavily dyed hair. They are more effective on lighter shades and virgin hair.
How Natural Remedies Work
Lemon juice, for example, contains citric acid, which can act as a mild bleaching agent. Honey contains hydrogen peroxide, which can also lighten the hair. Chamomile tea contains apigenin, which can brighten blonde hair.
Potential Drawbacks
While natural remedies are generally safe, they can also have some drawbacks. Lemon juice can be drying to the hair, and prolonged exposure to sunlight can cause damage. Honey can be sticky and difficult to rinse out. It’s important to always monitor the hair’s condition and stop using the remedy if you notice any signs of damage.
Protecting Your Hair During and After Lightening
Lightening dyed hair is a harsh process that can strip the hair of its natural oils and proteins. It’s essential to take steps to protect your hair during and after lightening to minimize damage and maintain its health.
Pre-Lightening Treatments
Before lightening your hair, it’s a good idea to use a deep conditioning treatment or a protein treatment to strengthen the hair and prepare it for the chemical process. These treatments can help to fill in any gaps in the hair shaft and make it more resistant to damage.
Using Low Developers
The developer is the oxidizing agent that activates the bleach or dye. Using a lower volume developer (e.g., 10 or 20 volume) will result in a slower, more gradual lightening process, which is less damaging to the hair.
Deep Conditioning Treatments
After lightening your hair, it’s crucial to replenish moisture and restore the hair’s protein balance. Use a deep conditioning treatment at least once a week, or more often if your hair feels dry or brittle. Look for treatments that contain ingredients like keratin, argan oil, or shea butter.
Leave-In Conditioners and Oils
Leave-in conditioners and hair oils can help to keep your hair hydrated and protected throughout the day. Apply a small amount to damp hair after washing, focusing on the ends.
Avoiding Heat Styling
Heat styling tools, such as blow dryers, curling irons, and flat irons, can further damage already stressed hair. Try to avoid using heat styling tools as much as possible. When you do use them, use a heat protectant spray to shield your hair from the heat.
Regular Trims
Regular trims are essential for removing split ends and preventing them from traveling up the hair shaft. Aim to get a trim every 6-8 weeks to keep your hair looking healthy and strong.
When to Consult a Professional
While it’s possible to lighten dyed hair at home, it’s always best to consult with a professional stylist, especially if you’re making a significant color change or if your hair is already damaged.
A professional stylist can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the best lightening method, and apply the products safely and effectively. They can also provide you with personalized advice on how to care for your hair after lightening.
Signs That You Should Seek Professional Help
- Your hair is already damaged or brittle.
- You’re trying to lighten your hair by more than two shades.
- You’ve previously had a negative reaction to hair dye or bleach.
- You’re unsure about which products to use or how to apply them.
Maintaining Your Lightened Hair Color
Once you’ve achieved your desired lighter shade, it’s important to maintain the color and prevent it from fading or becoming brassy.
Using Color-Safe Shampoo and Conditioner
Color-safe shampoos and conditioners are formulated to be gentle on dyed hair and to prevent the color from fading. Look for products that are sulfate-free and that contain ingredients that help to protect the hair’s color.
Avoiding Excessive Washing
Washing your hair too often can strip it of its natural oils and cause the color to fade faster. Try to wash your hair only when necessary, and use dry shampoo in between washes to absorb excess oil.
Using a Toner
Toner can help to neutralize unwanted brassy or yellow tones in lightened hair. It’s typically applied after lightening and can be used to achieve a more even and natural-looking color.
Protecting Your Hair from the Sun
The sun’s UV rays can cause hair color to fade and become damaged. Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection when you’re spending time outdoors.
The Bottom Line
Lightening dyed hair is a complex process that requires careful planning and execution. While it’s possible to achieve your desired lighter shade, it’s important to be aware of the challenges, the risks, and the steps you can take to protect your hair. Consulting with a professional stylist is always the best option, especially for significant color changes or if your hair is already damaged. By understanding the process and taking the necessary precautions, you can achieve beautiful, lightened hair without compromising its health.
Can you lighten dyed hair at home, and what are the risks?
Yes, it’s possible to lighten dyed hair at home, but it’s crucial to understand the potential risks. Home lightening kits can be more damaging than salon treatments because they often contain stronger chemicals and lack the custom formulation a professional stylist can provide. Misuse can lead to severe dryness, breakage, uneven color, and even chemical burns.
The level of damage largely depends on the current condition of your hair, the type of dye previously used (especially if it was a permanent dark shade), and your experience with bleaching. If you are unsure, or if your hair is already damaged, it is highly recommended to consult a professional colorist to avoid further compromising your hair’s health.
What are the best methods for lightening dyed hair?
Several methods can be used to lighten dyed hair, each with varying degrees of effectiveness and potential damage. Color removers are designed to lift artificial pigment from the hair shaft without the harshness of bleach. They work best on semi-permanent and demi-permanent dyes, and can sometimes lift a few levels of permanent color.
Bleach is the most effective method for lifting several shades, but it’s also the most damaging. Using low-volume developers and carefully monitoring the lightening process can minimize damage. Techniques like balayage or highlights, where bleach is applied strategically, can be less damaging than a full-head bleach.
How long should I wait between lightening sessions?
Patience is key when lightening dyed hair to minimize damage. Ideally, you should wait at least 4-6 weeks between lightening sessions. This allows your hair to recover and rebuild its protein structure, preventing excessive dryness and breakage. Deep conditioning treatments and protein masks during this time are highly beneficial.
If your hair shows signs of significant damage, such as increased breakage, split ends, or a gummy texture when wet, you should wait even longer, potentially several months. Focus on repairing and strengthening your hair with bond-building treatments and minimizing heat styling until it’s healthy enough for further lightening.
What does “developer volume” mean, and which should I use?
Developer volume refers to the strength of the hydrogen peroxide solution used in hair dye or bleach. It determines how much the hair cuticle is lifted and how much color is deposited or lifted. Lower volumes, like 10 or 20, are gentler and deposit more color, while higher volumes, like 30 or 40, lift more color but can also cause more damage.
When lightening dyed hair, especially if you’re aiming for a significant change, you might be tempted to use a higher volume developer. However, start with a lower volume like 20 and assess the results. You can always increase the volume in subsequent sessions if needed. Using too high of a volume unnecessarily can lead to over-processed and damaged hair.
Can I use purple shampoo to lighten dyed hair?
Purple shampoo cannot lighten dyed hair. It’s designed to neutralize brassy or yellow tones in blonde, silver, or highlighted hair, not to lift the actual color. Purple shampoo contains violet pigments that counteract the yellow undertones that can appear after bleaching or lightening.
While purple shampoo won’t lighten your hair, it can help maintain the desired tone after lightening. Use it sparingly, as overuse can cause a purple cast, especially on lighter shades of blonde. It’s best used as a toner between lightening sessions to keep your hair looking fresh and vibrant.
How can I minimize damage when lightening dyed hair?
Several strategies can help minimize damage when lightening dyed hair. Before starting, ensure your hair is in the best possible condition by using deep conditioning treatments and avoiding heat styling for a few weeks. Consider using bond-building treatments like Olaplex or similar products to strengthen the hair’s structure.
During the lightening process, use a low-volume developer and carefully monitor the results. Avoid overlapping bleach on previously lightened areas, as this can cause breakage. After lightening, use a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner, and continue using deep conditioning treatments regularly. Protect your hair from heat and sun exposure to prevent further damage.
What if my hair turns orange or brassy after lightening?
Orange or brassy tones are common when lightening dark or dyed hair, as the underlying warm pigments are revealed. This happens because bleach lifts the darker artificial pigments first, leaving behind the warmer undertones. The darker the starting shade and the more layers of dye, the more likely you are to encounter this.
To correct brassiness, use a toner specifically designed to neutralize orange or yellow tones. Blue toners counteract orange, while purple toners counteract yellow. Choose a toner that matches the level of brassiness in your hair. Follow the instructions carefully, and consider consulting a professional for the best results, especially if the brassiness is severe.