Toning your hair can be a game-changer, taking your color from brassy to beautiful, or adding subtle nuances that elevate your entire look. But with so many products and processes involved, it’s easy to get confused, especially when it comes to developers. One question that frequently pops up is: Can I tone my hair with 20 volume developer? The answer, as with most things in hair coloring, is nuanced. Let’s delve into the world of hair toning and developers to clarify the issue.
Understanding Hair Toners and Developers
Before we explore whether you can use 20 volume developer for toning, it’s crucial to understand what toners and developers are and how they work together.
What is a Hair Toner?
A toner is a product used to adjust the tone of your hair, usually after bleaching or highlighting. It deposits color onto the hair shaft to neutralize unwanted tones, such as yellow, orange, or red. Toners come in various forms, including demi-permanent colors, glosses, and even some shampoos and conditioners. The key is that they don’t significantly lighten the hair; they primarily deposit color. They can add warmth, cool down the shade, or even just add shine.
What is a Hair Developer?
A developer, also known as peroxide, is an oxidizing agent that opens the hair cuticle, allowing the toner (or hair dye) to penetrate the hair shaft. It also activates the color molecules in the toner. Developers come in different strengths, measured in volumes, such as 10 volume, 20 volume, 30 volume, and 40 volume. The higher the volume, the more lift (lightening) the developer provides.
The Role of Developer Volume in Toning
Choosing the right developer volume is critical for achieving the desired toning result. Using the wrong volume can lead to unwanted lightening, damage to the hair, or ineffective toning.
Why Volume Matters
The volume of the developer dictates its strength. A higher volume developer opens the hair cuticle more aggressively and lifts the hair’s natural pigment to a greater extent. While lifting can be beneficial when dyeing hair a lighter shade, it’s often undesirable when toning, where the primary goal is to deposit color, not lighten the hair.
Common Developer Volumes and Their Uses
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10 Volume Developer: This is the gentlest developer and is typically used for deposit-only color or toning. It opens the hair cuticle slightly, allowing the toner to deposit color without significant lightening.
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20 Volume Developer: This developer provides a slight lift and is commonly used for covering gray hair, going one to two shades lighter, or when a bit more color penetration is needed.
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30 Volume Developer: This is used for significant lightening, usually two to three shades, and is often used with permanent hair color.
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40 Volume Developer: This is the strongest developer and is used for maximum lightening, such as when lifting several shades or using high-lift blondes.
Can You Use 20 Volume Developer for Toning? Exploring the Possibilities
So, can you use 20 volume developer for toning? The answer is conditionally yes. Here’s a breakdown of when it might be appropriate and when it’s best to avoid it.
When 20 Volume Might Work
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Slight Lifting is Desired: If your hair is particularly resistant to toner, or if you want to lift the base color slightly while toning (perhaps to blend roots), 20 volume developer might be an option. However, proceed with extreme caution, as it can easily result in over-lightening.
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Coarse or Resistant Hair: Those with coarse or resistant hair might find that a slightly stronger developer helps the toner penetrate the hair shaft more effectively.
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Using a Toner That Requires It: Some toners are specifically formulated to be used with a 20 volume developer. Always read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
When to Avoid 20 Volume for Toning
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Damaged or Porous Hair: If your hair is already damaged, dry, or porous (meaning it absorbs moisture and color quickly), using a 20 volume developer can cause further damage and lead to uneven color absorption.
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Previously Lightened Hair: If your hair is already very light (level 9 or 10), using 20 volume developer can easily over-lighten it, resulting in a loss of tone and potential damage.
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Desired Result is Only Toning: If your goal is simply to neutralize unwanted tones without any lightening, 20 volume is generally too strong. Opt for 10 volume or a dedicated toning developer instead.
The Risks of Using 20 Volume for Toning
Using 20 volume developer when it’s not necessary can lead to several undesirable outcomes:
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Over-Lightening: As mentioned earlier, 20 volume can lift the hair’s natural pigment, even when you only want to deposit color. This can result in a brassy or uneven tone.
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Damage: Developers, especially higher volumes, can damage the hair cuticle, leading to dryness, breakage, and split ends.
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Uneven Color: If your hair is porous or unevenly lightened, the 20 volume developer can cause the toner to grab in some areas more than others, resulting in a patchy color.
Alternatives to 20 Volume Developer for Toning
If you’re unsure about using 20 volume developer for toning, there are safer and more effective alternatives.
10 Volume Developer: The Safer Choice
For most toning applications, 10 volume developer is the ideal choice. It provides just enough lift to open the hair cuticle and allow the toner to deposit color without significant lightening. It’s also much gentler on the hair, minimizing the risk of damage.
Toning-Specific Developers
Many brands offer developers specifically formulated for toning. These developers are typically very low volume (around 6 or 7 volume) and are designed to deposit color effectively without lifting. They often contain conditioning agents to help protect the hair during the toning process. These developers are specifically designed to be gentle and protect the hair’s integrity.
Demi-Permanent Glosses
Demi-permanent glosses are a great option for toning. They are deposit-only colors that add shine and vibrancy while neutralizing unwanted tones. They are often mixed with a low-volume developer (usually 5-10 volume or a dedicated gloss activator) or can sometimes be used alone, depending on the product.
How to Determine the Right Developer Volume for Your Hair
Choosing the right developer volume requires careful consideration of your hair type, condition, and desired results.
Assess Your Hair’s Condition
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Healthy Hair: If your hair is healthy and undamaged, you have more flexibility in choosing a developer volume. However, it’s still best to start with the lowest volume possible to achieve your desired results.
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Damaged Hair: If your hair is damaged, dry, or porous, stick to a 10 volume developer or a toning-specific developer to minimize further damage.
Consider Your Hair’s Level
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Light Hair (Level 9-10): If your hair is already very light, using a 20 volume developer for toning is generally not recommended. Opt for a 10 volume developer or a toning-specific developer.
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Darker Hair (Level 7 or Lower): If your hair is darker and you’re trying to tone it after bleaching, you might consider a 20 volume developer if you need a slight lift to achieve the desired tone. However, be very careful to monitor the process and avoid over-lightening.
Think About Your Desired Tone
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Neutralizing Unwanted Tones: If your goal is simply to neutralize unwanted tones (e.g., yellow or orange), a 10 volume developer or a toning-specific developer is usually sufficient.
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Adding Depth or Dimension: If you want to add depth or dimension to your hair color, you might consider a 20 volume developer. However, be sure to choose a toner that is formulated for use with a higher volume developer.
Always Do a Strand Test
Before applying any toner or developer to your entire head, always do a strand test. This will allow you to see how the product will affect your hair and whether the developer volume is appropriate. To perform a strand test, apply the toner and developer mixture to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair (e.g., underneath the hair near the nape of your neck). Leave it on for the recommended time and then rinse. This will help you avoid any unwanted surprises.
The Toning Process: A Step-by-Step Guide
Whether you’re using 10 volume, 20 volume, or a toning-specific developer, the toning process generally involves the following steps:
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Preparation: Gather your supplies, including the toner, developer, a mixing bowl, a tint brush, gloves, and a towel to protect your clothing.
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Mixing: Mix the toner and developer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Be sure to use the correct ratio.
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Application: Apply the toner mixture to your hair, starting at the roots and working your way to the ends. Be sure to saturate all of your hair evenly.
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Processing: Let the toner process for the recommended time. Do not exceed the recommended processing time, as this can damage your hair or result in an undesirable color.
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Rinsing: Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear.
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Conditioning: Apply a deep conditioner to your hair to help restore moisture and protect it from damage.
Tips for Successful Toning
Here are a few additional tips to help you achieve successful toning results:
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Use a Protein Treatment: If your hair is damaged or porous, consider using a protein treatment before toning to help strengthen and repair the hair.
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Monitor the Toning Process: Keep a close eye on your hair while the toner is processing. If you notice any unwanted changes, rinse the toner out immediately.
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Use a Purple Shampoo: Purple shampoo can help maintain your toner and prevent brassiness from returning. Use it once or twice a week, or as needed.
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Consider a Professional: If you’re unsure about toning your hair yourself, consider consulting a professional hair stylist. They can help you choose the right toner and developer for your hair type and desired results.
Conclusion
While it is possible to tone your hair with 20 volume developer, it’s generally not recommended unless you have a specific reason to do so, such as needing a slight lift or having particularly resistant hair. In most cases, 10 volume developer or a toning-specific developer is a safer and more effective option. Always assess your hair’s condition, level, and desired results before choosing a developer volume, and be sure to do a strand test to avoid any unwanted surprises. When in doubt, consult a professional hair stylist.
FAQ 1: What is the main risk of using 20 volume developer with a toner?
20 volume developer, while seemingly mild, can still lift the natural pigment in your hair. When used with a toner, this lifting action can inadvertently warm up the overall tone, causing brassiness or unwanted orange/yellow hues to appear, especially if the underlying hair is already warm. This is because the toner is designed to neutralize specific undertones, but the developer’s lifting action may expose more of the warm undertones that need to be countered, creating a counterproductive effect.
Additionally, using 20 volume developer when a lower volume (like 10 volume) would suffice can lead to unnecessary damage. The higher the volume, the more the cuticle layer of the hair is opened, increasing the potential for dryness, breakage, and overall weakening of the hair strand. This is particularly concerning for hair that’s already been chemically treated or is naturally fine and delicate.
FAQ 2: When is 20 volume developer a suitable choice for toning?
20 volume developer can be a suitable choice for toning if you’re aiming for a slight shift in color or need to lift the existing color by a level to achieve the desired tone. This is often the case when dealing with faded highlights that need refreshing or when slightly lightening the base color to create a brighter canvas for the toner to work on. However, it’s crucial to carefully assess your hair’s current condition and color level before proceeding.
Furthermore, 20 volume might be necessary if you’re toning over previously colored hair that is resistant to accepting new color. The stronger developer helps to open the cuticle and allows the toner to penetrate more effectively, leading to better color deposit. In these situations, close monitoring of the toning process is essential to prevent over-processing and unwanted color changes.
FAQ 3: How can I minimize damage when using 20 volume with toner?
To minimize damage, conduct a strand test before applying the toner mixture to your entire head. This allows you to assess the lift and color deposit without risking your overall hair health. The strand test will also help you determine the optimal processing time needed to achieve your desired result without over-processing.
Furthermore, incorporate protein treatments and deep conditioning masks into your hair care routine both before and after toning. These treatments help to strengthen the hair, replenish moisture, and seal the cuticle, mitigating the potential damage caused by the developer. Consider using a bond-building treatment as well to protect and repair the hair’s internal structure.
FAQ 4: What’s the difference between 10 and 20 volume developers in the context of toning?
10 volume developer is designed for depositing color only or slightly shifting the tone without significant lifting. It’s ideal for achieving subtle color changes or refreshing existing tones, making it a gentler option for hair that’s already lightened. It essentially deposits the toner pigment without drastically altering the base color.
20 volume developer, on the other hand, provides a slight lift to the hair’s cuticle, allowing for a more noticeable color change or the ability to cover gray hairs to a degree. While it can be used for toning, it’s more aggressive and carries a higher risk of unwanted warmth emerging, particularly if the underlying base is already warm-toned. The key difference lies in the developer’s lifting capabilities and the potential impact on the underlying pigment.
FAQ 5: What factors should I consider before using 20 volume developer with toner?
Assess your hair’s current color level and undertones. If your hair is already very light or has warm undertones, 20 volume developer might exacerbate the brassiness. Similarly, consider the overall health of your hair. Damaged or over-processed hair is more susceptible to breakage and dryness when exposed to a higher volume developer.
Think about your desired outcome. If you’re only looking for a subtle tone correction, a lower volume developer is probably a better choice. However, if you need to lift the existing color by a level or your hair is resistant to color, 20 volume might be necessary. Weigh the benefits against the potential risks to determine the most appropriate approach for your specific hair type and goals.
FAQ 6: Can I mix 20 volume developer with toner at home, or should I see a professional?
While it’s possible to mix 20 volume developer with toner at home, it requires careful consideration and understanding of hair color theory. Incorrect application or processing time can lead to undesirable results, such as brassiness, uneven color, or hair damage. If you’re unsure about the process or have complex color goals, consulting a professional colorist is highly recommended.
A professional colorist can accurately assess your hair’s condition, formulate a personalized toning plan, and apply the toner mixture evenly and precisely. They also have access to professional-grade products and techniques that can minimize damage and ensure optimal results. If you value your hair’s health and are seeking a guaranteed outcome, seeking professional assistance is the safest and most effective approach.
FAQ 7: What are some alternatives to using 20 volume developer with toner?
Consider using a color-depositing shampoo or conditioner for a gentler toning effect. These products deposit pigment gradually with each use, allowing you to subtly adjust your hair’s tone without the risk of lifting or damage. They’re a great option for maintaining your desired tone between salon visits or for neutralizing minor brassiness.
Alternatively, explore using a toner mixed with a lower volume developer, such as 5 or 10 volume. These lower volumes provide minimal lift and are better suited for depositing color or slightly shifting the tone without significantly altering the base color. They’re ideal for hair that’s already lightened or for achieving subtle color corrections with reduced risk of damage.