Toner is a hairstyling product that deposits color onto the hair, neutralizing unwanted undertones like yellow or orange. It’s a crucial step for achieving salon-quality blonde, platinum, or even vibrant fashion colors at home or in the salon. However, many find themselves asking, “Why is my toner turning my hair brown?” when the desired result is a cool, bright, or specific tone, not a darkening effect. Let’s delve into the common reasons behind this frustrating issue.
Understanding the Basics of Hair Toner
Before we can diagnose the problem, let’s clarify what toner is and what it’s supposed to do. A hair toner is not designed to lift color. Instead, it works by depositing pigment to neutralize unwanted brassiness or warmth. Toners typically contain ammonia or ammonia alternatives, but in much lower concentrations than permanent hair color. They also usually require a developer, which helps open the hair cuticle to allow the toner to deposit the desired pigment.
The Role of Developer in Toner Application
The developer used with the toner is crucial. It activates the toner and helps deposit the color. Using the wrong volume of developer can drastically affect the final result. Higher volume developers lift the hair slightly while depositing the toner, while lower volume developers primarily deposit color with minimal lift.
Types of Toners Available
Toners come in various forms, including liquid, cream, and even shampoos or conditioners with toning properties. Each type has its own application method and level of intensity. Some toners are designed for professional use, while others are available for at-home application. Understanding the specific type of toner you’re using is essential for achieving the desired outcome.
Common Causes of Brown Toner Results
Several factors can lead to your toner turning your hair brown instead of achieving the desired effect. These range from incorrect product selection to improper application techniques.
Incorrect Toner Choice
Perhaps the most frequent culprit is choosing the wrong toner for your hair’s base color and desired outcome. Toners are formulated to target specific undertones. Using a toner that’s too dark or contains pigments that don’t complement your hair’s existing color can result in a muddy or brownish hue.
Analyzing Your Hair’s Undertones
Identifying your hair’s undertones is essential for selecting the correct toner. After bleaching or lightening, hair often reveals underlying pigments of yellow, orange, or even red. A toner formulated to neutralize yellow undertones might contain violet or blue pigments, while one designed for orange undertones might contain blue or green pigments. Using a toner with too much of a neutralizing pigment can inadvertently darken the hair.
Choosing the Right Toner Shade
Toners are available in a wide range of shades, from very light ash blondes to darker beige blondes. If your hair is already quite light and you choose a toner that’s too dark, it will inevitably deposit too much pigment, resulting in a brown or muddy color. Always opt for a toner that’s slightly lighter than your desired outcome, especially if you’re new to toning.
Using the Wrong Developer Volume
As mentioned earlier, the developer volume plays a significant role in the toning process. Using a developer that’s too high (e.g., 30 or 40 volume) can lift your hair’s natural color, potentially exposing underlying brown or reddish pigments that the toner then deposits on top of, creating a brown cast.
Ideal Developer Volumes for Toning
Generally, a 10-volume developer is recommended for toning, as it primarily deposits color without significant lift. A 20-volume developer can be used in some cases, but it’s crucial to monitor the process closely to avoid unwanted lifting and darkening. Never use a developer higher than 20 volume for toning unless specifically instructed by a professional.
Over-Processing the Toner
Leaving the toner on for too long is another common mistake that can lead to a brown or muddy result. Toners deposit color gradually, and over-processing allows too much pigment to be absorbed into the hair shaft.
Recommended Toner Processing Time
Most toners have a recommended processing time of around 10-20 minutes. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Start checking your hair color after about 5-10 minutes to assess how the toner is developing. If you notice the color is becoming too dark, rinse it out immediately.
Uneven Application
Uneven application of the toner can also result in a patchy or uneven color, which might appear brown in certain areas. This is especially common when applying toner at home without assistance.
Tips for Even Toner Application
To ensure even application, divide your hair into small, manageable sections. Apply the toner evenly from root to tip, ensuring that each strand is thoroughly saturated. Use a tint brush to help distribute the toner evenly. If possible, ask a friend or family member to assist with the application, especially for the back of your head.
Porous Hair Issues
Porous hair absorbs color more quickly and intensely than healthy hair. If your hair is damaged or overly porous, it may absorb too much of the toner, leading to a darker or brownish result.
Identifying Porous Hair
Porous hair often feels dry, brittle, and easily tangles. It may also appear dull and lack shine. To test your hair’s porosity, try spraying a strand of hair with water. If the water is absorbed quickly, your hair is likely porous.
Toning Porous Hair
When toning porous hair, use a gentler toner formula and reduce the processing time. Consider using a protein treatment or hair mask before toning to help fill in the gaps in the hair shaft and create a more even surface for color absorption. Monitor the toner’s development very closely and rinse it out as soon as you achieve the desired color.
Product Build-Up Interference
Product build-up can create a barrier on the hair shaft, preventing the toner from depositing color evenly. This can lead to patchy results and an overall muddy or brownish tone.
Clarifying Hair Before Toning
Before toning, use a clarifying shampoo to remove any product build-up from your hair. This will help the toner penetrate the hair shaft more effectively and ensure a more even color result. Avoid using conditioners or other styling products before toning, as they can also interfere with the toner’s ability to deposit color.
Correcting Brown Toner Mishaps
If your toner has turned your hair brown, don’t panic! There are several ways to correct the issue and achieve your desired color.
Washing with Clarifying Shampoo
One of the simplest solutions is to wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo. This will help lift some of the excess toner from your hair and lighten the overall color. Be sure to use a moisturizing conditioner afterward, as clarifying shampoos can be drying.
Using a Color Remover
If the brown tone is more stubborn, you may need to use a color remover. These products are designed to gently lift artificial color from the hair without causing significant damage. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and perform a strand test before applying the color remover to your entire head.
Bleach Bath
A bleach bath, also known as a soap cap, is a milder form of bleaching that can help lift the brown tone without causing as much damage as a full bleach application. Mix equal parts bleach, developer (10 volume), and shampoo, and apply to your hair for a short period (5-15 minutes), monitoring the color closely. This method is best left to professionals or those with extensive experience with hair color.
Professional Color Correction
If you’re unsure about how to correct the brown tone yourself, it’s always best to consult a professional hairstylist. They have the expertise and tools to assess your hair’s condition and determine the best course of action to achieve your desired color without further damage. Color correction can be complex, and a professional can ensure the best possible outcome.
Preventing Future Toner Issues
Prevention is always better than cure. Here’s how to avoid turning your hair brown with toner in the future.
Consult with a Professional
If you’re new to toning or have had problems with it in the past, consider consulting with a professional hairstylist. They can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the right toner and developer for your desired outcome, and provide expert application tips.
Perform a Strand Test
Before applying toner to your entire head, always perform a strand test. This will allow you to see how the toner will react with your hair and adjust the processing time accordingly. Apply the toner to a small, hidden section of your hair and check the color after 5, 10, and 15 minutes. This will give you a good indication of how long to leave the toner on for your entire head.
Choose the Right Products
Select a toner and developer that are specifically designed for your hair’s base color and desired outcome. Read the product descriptions carefully and choose a toner that targets the undertones you want to neutralize. Use a 10-volume developer for toning, unless otherwise instructed by a professional.
Follow Instructions Carefully
Always read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Pay attention to the recommended processing time and application method. Do not exceed the recommended processing time, as this can lead to a darker or brownish result.
Maintain Hair Health
Healthy hair is more receptive to color and less likely to absorb too much toner. Use a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner, and deep condition your hair regularly. Avoid using heat styling tools too often, as they can damage the hair and make it more porous.
By understanding the reasons why toner can turn hair brown and taking preventive measures, you can achieve your desired hair color and avoid future mishaps. Remember, patience and careful attention to detail are key to successful toning.
Why is my toner turning my hair brown instead of neutralizing brassiness?
The primary reason toner might deposit unwanted brown tones is due to selecting a toner that’s too dark or contains brown or gold pigments. Toners are designed to counteract specific unwanted tones; using a toner with opposing pigments, like a gold-based toner on already golden hair, can result in muddy or brunette shades. Always carefully consider your hair’s current undertones and select a toner that neutralizes those specific tones without adding unnecessary color.
Furthermore, the porosity of your hair plays a significant role in how toner is absorbed. Highly porous hair, often damaged or previously bleached, absorbs pigment more readily. This means that a toner might latch onto the hair too strongly, depositing more color than intended. In such cases, a shorter processing time or a diluted toner formula might be necessary to prevent over-toning and ensure the desired result.
Can using the wrong developer with toner cause my hair to turn brown?
Absolutely. The developer you choose significantly impacts how the toner deposits pigment into your hair. Using a developer that’s too strong can lift the hair’s cuticle more than necessary, causing the toner to penetrate too deeply and deposit excessive color. This can easily lead to your hair becoming darker than intended, potentially exhibiting brown or muddy tones instead of the desired neutral or ashy shades.
Specifically, developers with higher volumes (like 20 or 30 volume) are designed for lifting color, while toners typically require a low volume developer (like 10 volume) or even a toner-specific developer. Higher volumes can open the hair cuticle too much, causing the toner to act more like a permanent dye, grabbing onto more pigment and resulting in an unwanted brunette shade.
How does my hair’s pre-existing color affect the outcome of toner application?
The starting level and undertones of your hair are crucial factors determining the final result after toning. If your hair is naturally darker or has underlying warm tones, a toner designed to neutralize very light blonde hair may not be effective. Instead, it can deposit its pigments over the existing warmth, creating a muddy or brownish result rather than achieving a bright, cool blonde.
Consider your hair’s starting point as the canvas upon which the toner will work. A toner can only adjust the existing tones, not completely change the base color. If your hair is too dark or has too much underlying warmth, you may need to lighten it further before applying toner to achieve the desired shade. A color correction might be necessary to even out the base before toning.
What happens if I leave toner on for too long, and how can it turn my hair brown?
Over-processing toner is a common culprit for unwanted color shifts, including turning hair brown. Leaving toner on for longer than the manufacturer’s recommended processing time allows the pigments to over-deposit into the hair shaft. This can lead to a build-up of color that surpasses the intended neutralizing effect, resulting in a darker, muddier tone, often leaning towards brown.
Furthermore, the longer the toner sits on the hair, the more it penetrates the cuticle. This is especially true for porous or damaged hair. Over time, the toner essentially acts as a semi-permanent dye, grabbing onto the hair and intensifying the color deposit. Always adhere strictly to the recommended processing time to avoid this unwanted color transformation.
Is it possible that my toner is expired, causing it to turn my hair brown?
Yes, expired toner can indeed lead to unpredictable and undesirable color results, including a brownish hue. Chemical products like toner degrade over time, and the pigments can become unstable. This instability can cause the toner to deposit unevenly or to shift in color, resulting in a muddy or brown shade rather than the intended neutralizing effect.
Moreover, expired toner might not mix properly with the developer, leading to an inconsistent formula. This inconsistency can affect how the color is deposited, creating hot spots or uneven tones, ultimately culminating in an unwanted brown hue. Always check the expiration date before using any hair product to ensure its efficacy and safety.
Can using a toner designed for darker hair still turn lighter hair brown?
Using a toner formulated for darker hair on pre-lightened hair, even if aiming for a darker blonde, is a risky endeavor and can frequently lead to unwanted brown or muddy results. Toners for darker hair often contain stronger pigments designed to neutralize significant amounts of warmth, and these pigments can be overwhelming for hair that’s already lightened.
These toners typically deposit a higher concentration of color to achieve the desired effect on naturally darker strands. When applied to light blonde or platinum hair, this excessive pigment can easily overload the hair shaft, resulting in an unintentional brunette tone. Always choose a toner that is appropriate for your hair’s current level and undertones.
What can I do to fix my hair if toner has already turned it brown?
The first step in correcting over-toned, brown hair is assessing the severity of the discoloration. For minor darkening, a clarifying shampoo used a few times might help to gently lift some of the excess pigment. Follow this with a deep conditioning treatment to replenish moisture lost during the clarifying process. Avoid using purple shampoos at this stage, as they may exacerbate the unwanted tones.
If the brown tones are more pronounced, you may need to consider a color correction process. This might involve a gentle color remover or bleach wash performed by a professional colorist to lift the excess pigment without causing significant damage. Afterward, a carefully chosen toner can be applied to achieve your desired shade, ensuring that the base color is properly balanced first. Consulting a professional is always advisable to prevent further damage and achieve the best possible outcome.