Achieving the perfect hair color is a delicate balance of science, artistry, and understanding the tools you’re working with. One of the most crucial tools in a colorist’s arsenal is hair developer, and 30 volume developer is a commonly used strength. But understanding precisely how much lift it provides is key to achieving your desired results without causing unnecessary damage. This comprehensive guide will delve into the intricacies of 30 volume developer, explaining its lifting power, influencing factors, and how to use it effectively.
Understanding Hair Developer and its Role
Hair developer, also known as peroxide or oxidizing agent, is the catalyst that activates hair dye or bleach. It opens the hair cuticle, allowing the color molecules to penetrate the hair shaft and deposit color or lighten the existing pigment. The volume number indicates the strength of the developer, specifically the percentage of hydrogen peroxide it contains. 30 volume developer contains 9% hydrogen peroxide.
The higher the volume, the more oxygen it releases, resulting in greater lift. However, higher volumes also carry a greater risk of damage, so choosing the right volume is crucial. The goal is to achieve the desired level of lift with the least amount of damage possible.
How Much Lift Does 30 Volume Developer Provide?
Generally, 30 volume developer is expected to lift hair by 2-3 levels. This means it can lighten your hair two to three shades lighter than its current color. For example, if you have dark brown hair (level 3), using 30 volume developer could potentially lift it to a medium brown (level 5) or even a light brown (level 6).
However, this is just a general guideline. The actual amount of lift achieved can vary depending on a variety of factors that we’ll discuss in detail. Remember, individual hair characteristics play a major role in determining the final outcome.
Factors Affecting Lift with 30 Volume Developer
Several factors can influence how much lift you’ll achieve with 30 volume developer. These include your starting hair color, hair type, hair health, the specific dye or bleach used, and the processing time. Understanding these factors is essential for predicting and controlling the outcome of your hair coloring process.
Starting Hair Color Level
The darker your starting hair color, the more difficult it will be to lift it significantly. Lifting dark brown or black hair to a very light blonde often requires multiple sessions and higher volumes of developer, while lighter shades like light brown or dark blonde will lift more easily with 30 volume. Start by accurately identifying your hair’s current level on a hair color chart. This will help you set realistic expectations.
Hair Type and Texture
Fine hair tends to lift faster than coarse hair because it has less cuticle layers to penetrate. Similarly, porous hair, which is more absorbent, may lift quicker but also be more prone to damage. Healthy, virgin hair (hair that hasn’t been previously colored or chemically treated) is generally more resistant to lifting than hair that has been processed before.
Hair Health and Previous Processing
Damaged hair is more susceptible to breakage and may not lift evenly. If your hair is already dry, brittle, or has undergone previous chemical treatments like perms or relaxers, proceed with caution. Prioritize repairing and strengthening your hair before attempting to lighten it further. Protein treatments and deep conditioning masks can help improve hair health.
Type of Hair Dye or Lightener Used
The formulation of the hair dye or bleach you use also plays a significant role. Some dyes are designed for maximum lift and contain stronger lifting agents, while others are more gentle and deposit more color than lift. Bleach, by its very nature, is designed for maximum lift, but even within bleach products, there are varying strengths and formulations. Choose a high-quality product specifically designed for the level of lift you’re trying to achieve. Read reviews and consider consulting with a professional colorist for recommendations.
Processing Time
The longer you leave the dye or bleach on your hair, the more lift you’ll achieve. However, exceeding the recommended processing time can lead to damage, breakage, and uneven results. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding processing time and monitor your hair closely throughout the process. Check a strand test regularly to assess the lift and condition of your hair.
How to Use 30 Volume Developer Safely and Effectively
Using 30 volume developer requires careful planning and execution. Here are some tips for achieving the best results while minimizing damage:
Perform a Strand Test
A strand test is non-negotiable. This simple step involves applying the dye or bleach mixture to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair to assess how it lifts and how your hair reacts. This allows you to adjust the processing time or developer volume if needed, preventing potential disasters on your entire head of hair. A strand test provides valuable information about the expected outcome and potential for damage.
Protect Your Skin
Always wear gloves when handling hair dye or bleach to prevent staining and irritation. Apply a barrier cream or petroleum jelly along your hairline and ears to protect your skin from staining. Protecting your skin is as important as protecting your hair.
Mix Thoroughly
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing the dye or bleach with the developer. Use a non-metallic bowl and applicator brush to ensure proper mixing and prevent unwanted chemical reactions. Proper mixing is essential for consistent results.
Apply Evenly
Apply the mixture evenly to your hair, starting at the roots if you’re aiming for overall lightening. If you’re doing highlights or balayage, use the appropriate techniques to achieve the desired effect. Work quickly and efficiently to ensure even distribution.
Monitor the Processing Time
Set a timer and monitor your hair closely throughout the processing time. Check the strand test regularly to assess the lift and condition of your hair. If you notice any signs of damage or excessive dryness, rinse the mixture out immediately.
Rinse Thoroughly and Condition
Once the processing time is complete, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear. Follow with a deep conditioning treatment to replenish moisture and restore the hair’s pH balance. Deep conditioning is crucial for maintaining the health and integrity of your hair after lightening.
Consider Professional Consultation
If you’re unsure about using 30 volume developer or have concerns about your hair’s health, consider consulting a professional colorist. They can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the best products and techniques for your desired result, and minimize the risk of damage. A professional colorist can provide expert advice and guidance for achieving your hair color goals.
Is 30 Volume Developer Right for You?
Deciding whether or not to use 30 volume developer depends on your individual hair goals and circumstances. It’s a versatile option that can provide a moderate amount of lift, but it’s not suitable for everyone.
If you’re looking to lift your hair by 2-3 levels and your hair is in relatively good condition, 30 volume developer may be a good choice. However, if you have very dark hair and want to achieve a significantly lighter shade, you may need to use a higher volume developer or multiple sessions. If your hair is already damaged or you’re unsure about the process, it’s best to consult a professional.
Alternatives to 30 Volume Developer
If you’re concerned about the potential damage from 30 volume developer, there are alternative options to consider:
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20 Volume Developer: Provides less lift (1-2 levels) but is gentler on the hair. Suitable for subtle lightening or covering gray hair.
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10 Volume Developer: Provides minimal lift and is primarily used for depositing color or toning.
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Bleach Alternatives: Consider using gentler lightening products like color removers or hair lighteners that are specifically formulated to minimize damage.
Maintaining Your Hair After Lightening
After lightening your hair with 30 volume developer, it’s crucial to implement a proper hair care routine to maintain its health and vibrancy. This includes:
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Using sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners: Sulfate-free products are gentler on the hair and help prevent color fading.
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Deep conditioning regularly: Deep conditioning treatments replenish moisture and strengthen the hair.
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Using heat protectant sprays: Heat styling can damage the hair, so always use a heat protectant spray before using hot tools.
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Avoiding over-washing: Washing your hair too frequently can strip it of its natural oils and lead to dryness.
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Getting regular trims: Trimming split ends prevents them from traveling up the hair shaft and causing further damage.
Lightening your hair with 30 volume developer can be a rewarding experience, but it’s essential to approach the process with knowledge, caution, and a commitment to proper hair care. By understanding the factors that influence lift, using the product safely and effectively, and maintaining your hair’s health afterwards, you can achieve your desired color while minimizing damage.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many shades can I realistically expect 30 volume developer to lift my hair?
30 volume developer is generally expected to lift hair 2-3 shades. However, the actual amount of lift can vary depending on several factors including your natural hair color, the type of hair dye or bleach you are using, and the porosity of your hair. Darker hair may only achieve a lift of 2 shades, while lighter brown hair may reach a 3-shade lift.
Remember that individual results can differ. It is crucial to perform a strand test before applying the developer and color to your entire head. This will help you determine the exact lift you can achieve and avoid any unwanted surprises or damage to your hair.
Is 30 volume developer damaging to hair?
Yes, 30 volume developer is more potent than lower volume developers, making it potentially more damaging if not used correctly. It penetrates the hair cuticle more aggressively to lift color, which can lead to dryness, breakage, and overall weakening of the hair structure, especially with frequent use.
To minimize damage, ensure you are using high-quality hair color or bleach, follow the manufacturer’s instructions precisely, and avoid overlapping previously lightened areas. Incorporating deep conditioning treatments and protein masks into your hair care routine is also essential for replenishing moisture and strengthening your hair after using 30 volume developer.
Can I use 30 volume developer to lighten very dark hair?
While 30 volume developer can lift dark hair, achieving significant lightening (more than 3 shades) usually requires multiple applications or a stronger developer like 40 volume. Trying to achieve a dramatic color change with a single application of 30 volume on very dark hair could result in brassy or orange tones instead of the desired lighter shade.
For dark hair, consider starting with a lower volume developer for the first application to minimize damage and assess how well your hair lifts. Then, if necessary, you can proceed with a second application of 30 volume, carefully monitoring the processing time to prevent over-processing and further damage. Always consult with a professional stylist for best results and to avoid potential hair damage.
How does hair porosity affect the lift I can achieve with 30 volume developer?
Hair porosity, which refers to how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture, significantly influences the lift you can achieve with 30 volume developer. High porosity hair, with a raised cuticle, absorbs the developer quickly, leading to faster processing and potentially more lift, but also increased damage risk. Low porosity hair, with a tightly closed cuticle, resists absorption, requiring longer processing times and possibly resulting in less lift.
For high porosity hair, carefully monitor the processing time to prevent over-processing and use a protein filler beforehand to even out the porosity. For low porosity hair, consider using a heat cap or applying gentle heat to help the developer penetrate the hair shaft more effectively. Regardless of your hair porosity, always conduct a strand test to assess how your hair reacts to the developer and adjust the processing time accordingly.
What’s the difference between 20 volume and 30 volume developer?
The primary difference between 20 volume and 30 volume developer is the amount of hydrogen peroxide they contain. 20 volume developer contains 6% hydrogen peroxide and is typically used for deposit-only colors, gray coverage, and lifting 1-2 shades. 30 volume developer contains 9% hydrogen peroxide and is used for lifting 2-3 shades.
30 volume developer is stronger and more effective at lifting color than 20 volume, but it also carries a higher risk of damage. If you’re unsure which developer to use, it’s always better to start with a lower volume developer to minimize the potential for over-processing and damage, especially if you’re inexperienced. A strand test is essential to determine the appropriate developer for your specific hair type and desired results.
Can I mix 30 volume developer with a toner?
While it is technically possible to mix 30 volume developer with a toner, it is generally not recommended. Toners are designed to deposit color and neutralize unwanted tones in pre-lightened hair, and they typically work best with lower volume developers like 10 or 20 volume.
Using a 30 volume developer with a toner can result in over-processing and unnecessary damage to your already lightened hair. It can also cause the toner to process too quickly, leading to uneven color or unwanted shades. Stick to the manufacturer’s recommendations for the appropriate developer volume to achieve the best results with your toner while minimizing damage.
How long should I leave 30 volume developer on my hair?
The processing time for 30 volume developer varies depending on the specific product you’re using and the desired level of lift. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific hair color or bleach you are using. Generally, the processing time ranges from 30-45 minutes, but it’s crucial to monitor your hair closely during the process.
Regularly check a strand of your hair to assess the color development and stop the process when you’ve achieved the desired shade. Over-processing can lead to severe damage, breakage, and unwanted color results. Never leave the developer on your hair longer than the maximum recommended time.